A relative recently gave me “Roast Chicken and Other Stories,” by Simon Hopkinson. Under the simple garlic drawing decorating the cover are the words “The most useful cookbook of all time.” Of course I was immediately intrigued. That is quite a large claim.
In fact, the cookbook takes quite a novel approach, reminiscent of the Joy of Cooking layout, but much more personal in recipe instruction. For example, here is an excerpt from the Cilantro chapter –
“This is a herb I came to late in life. I had tried using it in stews, as is the style of Indian cooks, and found the resultant taste muddy and bitter. It wasn’t until I discovered salsa, and some remarkably hot food in my initiaion to Thai cooking, that its magical taste finally appealed to me. So much so, that on paying a visit to a favorite Thai cafe-cum-restaurant in west London, desperate for my hit of cilantro, and discovering that it hadn’t yet been delivered, there seemed no point in staying for lunch. . . . I even find myself eating cilantro raw- whole clumps of it. I add it to far too many dishes, too often. I believe that cilantro should hardly ever be cooked and that if it is included in a hot dish, it should only be added at the very last moment. Its flavor is sharp, soapy, and metallic – not the most beguiling description but somehow it is a real spoiler for the taste buds. It seems to shout sharp and citrus and its flavor bursts open when combined with things spicy and hot-tasting. There is nothing like it. If I ever see a recipe again that suggests flat-leaf parsley as a substitute for cilantro, then I shall weep with frustration. There is no substitute. However, I know that there are many people who actively dislike its strident taste. And, incidentally, it is not a great partner to good wine.”
Hopkinson continues in this vein through chapters such as Chocolate, Garlic, Kidneys, Peppers, Scallops and Tripe, amongst many others. I enjoy that at those moments when one looks into the cupboard or refrigerator and sees one main item, this cookbook takes that item and offers a new twist. No looking in the index to see where it might be combined into a recipe in a different book.
Cooking becomes quite a journey on our Iron-Chef nights (we all do them – make do with what we have). Hopkinson’s British heritage adds yet another distinct diversity to his collection of recipe ideas. So set a fire in that stove, check out this book and begin a summer-long journey with fresh ingredients and ideas.
Info: Roast Chicken and Other Stories, by Simon Hopkinson; Published by Hyperion. See Chapter One or Iconoclast books stores in town to order.
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